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Benevento, Italy: The City of Witches You Need to Add to Your Italy Bucket List

Discover Benevento, Italy, the fascinating City of Witches. Explore its witch legends, Roman ruins, Strega liqueur, historic sights, where to stay, and everything to know about this incredible Southern Italy town.

9/25/202611 min read

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There’s something a little mysterious about Benevento, Italy. Long before tourists started searching for Italy’s hidden corners, Benevento had already earned itself a reputation for something far more mysterious.

For centuries, stories of witches gathering beneath a sacred walnut tree have woven themselves into the history and identity of this ancient city.

This little-known town in Campania has Roman ruins, a beautiful historic center, a UNESCO-listed church, medieval history, a massive pedestrian walkway in the heart of the town, and of course, witches!

The Italian word for witch is strega, and you’ll see that word pop up around Benevento in everything from its famous Strega liqueur to local folklore, souvenirs, and even the city's football team.

But how did a perfectly normal Italian city end up with a reputation for witches? The answer involves a very old walnut tree, pagan rituals, the Lombards, a little bit of Christian fear, plus centuries of storytelling. It makes Benevento even more interesting.

So if you're looking for an Italian destination that's a little different from the usual tourist itinerary, a lot quieter than Rome, and has easy access to the train lines, Benevento is one to put on your list. Here's everything to know...

Where Is Benevento?

Benevento is in the Campania region of southern Italy, about 60 miles northeast of Naples (on the fast train, it's two hours from Rome and a little over one hour from Naples).

It sits inland, between the Sabato and Calore rivers, and has a history that goes back thousands of years. The city has been shaped by the Samnites, Romans, Lombards, and Papal States, so you can see several very different periods of Italian history just by walking around town.

It's also surprisingly easy to visit without a car, which makes it a great addition to a trip through Campania if you've already seen Naples and want to explore somewhere a little less obvious.

Why Is Benevento Called the City of Witches?

The legend of the witches of Benevento is connected to an ancient walnut tree and pagan rituals associated with the Lombards.

According to the traditional story, pagan rituals took place around a sacred walnut tree near the Sabato River. These rituals were later viewed by local Christians as something demonic. Over time, the original rituals became mixed with stories of women gathering around the tree, dancing, practicing magic, and participating in what came to be described as witches' sabbaths.

The women became known as janare, the local Beneventan word associated with witches. And like many old legends, the story changed as it was passed down.

One of the earliest documented references connecting Benevento with gatherings of witches comes from a 15th-century witchcraft trial involving Matteuccia da Todi. She described witches traveling to the walnut tree of Benevento, helping cement the city's association with witchcraft.

There's an important distinction here, though. The witch story is folklore and legend, not proof that witches actually gathered in Benevento.

There are also no surviving records showing that Benevento itself held witch trials. The legend grew over centuries through stories, religious interpretations, and written accounts. And that's what I love about old Italian towns. Sometimes the history is a combination of what actually happened, what people believed happened, and the stories that survived long after everyone involved was gone.

The Walnut Tree Legend

The walnut tree is at the heart of the Benevento witch story. According to legend, Saint Barbatus, the bishop of Benevento, ordered the sacred walnut tree destroyed when the Lombards converted to Christianity. But apparently, cutting down a tree wasn't enough to stop a good legend.

Stories continued to circulate about the tree and the mysterious gatherings that supposedly took place there. Eventually, the original pagan rituals became transformed into the much more dramatic story of witches flying to Benevento on broomsticks and meeting around the magical walnut tree.

By the 1600s, writers were documenting and expanding the story, helping turn Benevento's witches into a legend known well beyond the city. And eventually, the legend became part of the city's identity.

And Then There Is Strega Liqueur

You can't talk about Benevento's witches without talking about Strega. If you've ever seen a bottle of bright yellow Strega liqueur, this is where it comes from.

Liquore Strega was created in Benevento in 1860 and is made with around 70 herbs and spices. Its name, of course, means witch in Italian. The company embraced the old witch legend and incorporated it into the story surrounding the drink.

You can find Strega throughout Benevento, and one of the city's well-known stops is Caffè Strega.

Even if you're not a liqueur drinker, it's worth stopping for a coffee and taking a look. And if you are? Well, when in the City of Witches, you could even take a Strega liquor walking tour.

Liquore Strega from Benevento

What to See and Do in Benevento

The witch legend might be what gets you interested in Benevento, but it definitely shouldn't be the only reason you go.

There is a LOT of history packed into this city.

See the Arch of Trajan

The Arch of Trajan was built in 114 AD, and it marked the beginning of the Via Traiana, an important Roman road that provided a faster route connecting Benevento with the southern part of Italy and eventually Brindisi.

And this isn't just some little Roman arch that you'll walk past in five seconds. It's covered in incredibly detailed carvings depicting Trajan's military victories, religious scenes, and aspects of Roman life.

The Arch of Trajan, Benevento

Visit the Roman Theatre

If you love Roman history, don't skip the Teatro Romano di Benevento.

The theatre was built during the Roman period and could accommodate as many as 15,000 spectators. It's also remarkably well preserved.

I think places like this are especially fun because you can actually picture what the city must have been like when Benevento was an important Roman center.

And unlike some of Italy's most famous ancient sites, you're not necessarily fighting your way through enormous crowds to see it.

Roman Theatre in Benevento

Explore Santa Sofia

Santa Sofia is one of Benevento's most important historic churches and one of the city's connections to its Lombard past.

Built around 760, the church has an unusual geometric design and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Longobards in Italy.

It's not enormous, but that's part of what makes it interesting. The interior feels very different from many of the grand churches you'll see elsewhere in Italy.

If you're interested in medieval Italy or Italian churches, this is one to put high on your list.

A wedding was taking place in the Santa Sofia church in Benevento & this was their getaway car

Walk Through the Historic Center

This might actually be one of my favorite things to recommend in a city like Benevento. Don't make your entire visit about checking monuments off a list. Walk around.

Take the time to wander through the historic center, duck down the little streets, stop for coffee, and see what you find.

Corso Garibaldi is one of the main streets through the historic center, and you'll find several important sights along or near it, including Santa Sofia, the Rocca dei Rettori, and the route toward the Arch of Trajan.

This is the kind of place where I'd give myself a few hours to simply wander without a strict itinerary.

When I lived in Benevento for one month, my evening passeggiata was always on Corso Garibaldi. It's a lovely and safe pedestrian street.

Corso Garibaldi, Benevento

The gorgeous light & architecture you'll discover as you walk down Corso Garibaldi

Visit the Rocca dei Rettori

The Rocca dei Rettori is Benevento's castle and sits at one of the highest points in the historic center.

The site itself is even older than the castle. It was previously occupied by the Romans and later became a Lombard fortress. The medieval fortress that we see today began taking shape in the 14th century under Papal rule.

Today, the building houses the provincial administration and historical exhibitions.

It's also worth visiting for the location and views.

Rocca dei Rettori in Benevento

Stop at the Sannio Museum

If you want to understand Benevento beyond its Roman ruins and witch legends, spend some time at the Museo del Sannio.

The museum covers the history of the area and is housed in the former monastery complex connected with Santa Sofia.

This is a good rainy-day option, too.

Sannio Museum in Benevento

What to Eat in Benevento

Of course, you can't visit an Italian city without experiencing the local cuisine.

Benevento is part of the Sannio area of Campania, so expect hearty southern Italian cooking, handmade pasta, local meats, cheeses, and plenty of regional specialties.

A few places worth looking into include:

Osteria Sapori di Corte ~ A small osteria in the historic center with local Sannio-inspired cooking.

Trattoria Il Cinghiale ~ A traditional option known for hearty dishes, handmade pasta, and wild boar. It was steps away from my apartment, so I went often. Excellent food!

Pub Wandermore ~ A Harry Potter-inspired pub with a fun vibe and good food and drinks.

And don't forget to try something made with Strega liqueur while you're here.

My frothy, refreshing beer at Pub Wandermore, Benevento

Harry Potter-inspired pub called Pub Wandermore

Where to Stay in Benevento

If you're spending the night, I'd stay in or very close to the historic center.

Benevento is a walkable city, and staying centrally makes it much easier to see the major sights without constantly worrying about transportation.

A few options to check out:

Hotel Villa Traiano ~ A boutique-style 4-star hotel in an early-20th-century villa, just a short walk from the historic center and Arch of Trajan.

Janara Santa Sofia ~ The place I stayed in for 1 month. It's a studio apartment that is near Corso Garibaldi and the city center.

B&B Al Teatro Romano ~ A good option if you'd like to be right near the Roman Theatre in the historic Triggio neighborhood.

Janara Arch of Trajan ~ Enjoy your own private in-room hot tub. Perfect for relaxing after a long day of walking around town!

If you want something a little different, Parva Vinea is an agriturismo just outside the city, surrounded by vineyards and olive trees.

I actually love the idea of staying at an agriturismo for a place like Benevento, because it gives you a completely different experience from staying in a big city hotel.

My favorite picture I took in Benevento ~ A gorgeous building just steps away from my apartment and close to Corso Garibaldi

How to Get to Benevento From Rome

The easiest way to get to Benevento from Rome is by train.

You can leave from Roma Termini and take a direct train to Benevento. Depending on the service, the fastest journeys are around 1 hour and 47 minutes to about 2 hours.

That makes Benevento much more accessible from Rome than you might think.

You could easily combine it with a longer Campania trip, or make it a stop on a route between Rome and southern Italy.

Driving: The drive is roughly 2.5 to 3 hours depending on traffic and your exact route.

But honestly, if you're traveling independently and don't need a car for the rest of your trip, I'd look at the train first.

How to Get to Benevento From Naples

Benevento is even closer to Naples.

Trains run between Napoli Centrale and Benevento, with the fastest services taking around an hour to an hour and a half, although journey times vary depending on the train and whether it is direct.

That makes Benevento a realistic addition to a Naples itinerary. If you're staying in Naples for several days, you could spend a night or even just a full day exploring Benevento.

While I was living in Benevento, I took several day trips to Naples, Sorrento, and the Amalfi Coast. I even went up to Florence for a couple nights.

A beautiful, misty morning on my walk to the train station in Benevento

How Much Time Do You Need in Benevento?

I would give Benevento at least one full day. You can see some of the major sights in a day, especially if you're comfortable walking.

But if you're anything like me, you're probably going to want time to stop for coffee, wander the streets, have lunch, enjoy an evening passeggiata, and actually enjoy the city instead of rushing from one place to the next.

One day: Great for the major sights.

Two days: Better if you want to slow down, eat well, and explore more of the city.

Three days: Gives you time to use Benevento as a base for exploring more of the Sannio area.

Benevento has some breathtaking sunsets!

Is Benevento Worth Visiting?

I think Benevento is exactly the kind of Italian destination that's easy to overlook.

It doesn't have the name recognition of Rome or Florence, and that's actually part of its appeal!

You can walk past a nearly 2,000-year-old Roman arch, visit a UNESCO-listed Lombard church, explore a medieval fortress, and then sit down for a coffee on Corso Garibaldi or get a refreshing beer at a Harry Potter pub.

Where else are you going to get that combination?

The witch story is fascinating, but Benevento isn't just a city built around a spooky legend.

So if you're planning an Italy trip and want to get beyond the places everyone else is visiting, I'd put Benevento on your radar.

The City of Witches might be what gets you there, but its history and beauty are what will keep you interested.